FAQ for new models in South Africa:
Types of shoots:
Terms:
Do I need to be a certain size/shape/...?
Absolutely not, you can be any size, shape, age, or colour. Good skin is preferred, but not a necessity. For every model there's a photographer who wants to photograph them.
If you want to be a runway model that's different; you'll need to be a certain size for practical reasons, and this size varies from agency to agency, country to country. However, if you're a popular model (e.g. catalogue model) the fashion director will tailor the clothes to fit you, rather than expect you to fit the clothes.
How do I get work?
Post casting calls! If you're a member of a model site like modelmoney.org or Modelbase.co.za then go ahead and post casting calls for photographers and stylists, don't wait for the photographer to select you... you may wait a long time.
Contact photographers and make suggestions, be proactive. It really does help if you're familiar with a photographer's work before contacting them, don't just contact blindly. Sometimes just a comment or acknowledgement on a photographer's profile will be enough to get them to shoot with you. Always put up a lot of information on your profile about the types of shoots you dream of doing.
You need to work on your modeling or self-promotion every day, even if you're doing dress-up and shoots with your cell-phone and a lamp. It all adds up.
Be friends with the photographers and stylists and other models, don't treat them like money and they won't treat you like the help.
If you have an idea put up a rough photo/sketch of what you have in mind, and ask a photographer if they can help you develop the idea.
Do I need to join an agency?
This is a tricky question. Agencies are usually for commercial/published work and have many models on their books. An agency cannot guarantee you work, and they may ask you to sign exclusively with them. A good agency may get you far, but to be in a good agency you need to have some experience and a gorgeous look.
The most common agency experience is that a model signs exclusively with an agency... and does only a few shoots a year, if any.
Some agencies exploit aspiring models and require models to use their photographer only and even pay the agency. Check out the quality of the photographer's and agency's portfolio first, and ask the agency for references (other models, clients, etc). If they have an attitude about providing this you know they're not serious or have taken advantage of their models.
There are many many fly-by-night agencies that show you a fake portfolio taken from magazines, simply take your money, have amateur 'boyfriend' photographers... and never offer you real work.
A professional agency will never require you to pay "admin" or "shooting" fees, and in most countries it's illegal as it's a popular scam. Watch out for people asking "Casting Call" fees, "Exposure Book" scams, "Deposits" and so on. There are a few top agencies that require a signup fee, which is refunded on your first shoot.
You can usually get much more work and experience as an amateur/self promoted model, until your portfolio gets you into a top agency.
How do I know I'll get paid / Get my CD?
Get it in writing! Always!
If you have any concerns about payment or receiving a CD take along a form and get it in writing. (use these, or just type up your own form with a few simple requirements, it's a perfectly legal document, but try be fair to all)
If you are doing TFCD make sure there is a fall-back clause so that if you don't receive your images you can demand payment for your time, or ask for a DVD of the unedited images immediately after the shoot.
Better yet, get a refundable deposit for the CD/images, so that if you don't get your CD at least you got paid for your time.
It only takes a few minutes to burn 300 images.
Take along your own DVD/memory stick to avoid excuses! (of course editing photos takes time, but if you have the raw images at least you have *something*)
If you do a shoot, and you have the contract in writing, and you don't get paid / get your CD, then you can take the photographer to small claims court (it doesn't cost anything), which will affect the reputation of the photographer. It's mean but it helps the industry.
If you got paid for the shoot and there is no TFCD clause you can't expect any images - these are provided only as a courtesy.
If you're late or reschedule the photographer has the right to pay you pro-rata/portion of the time, or cancel.
Who Pays?
Whoever commissions the pictures pays. If the model needs pics for their portfolio it is the model who pays. If the tog needs pics, they pay. If both need pics there's usually some agreement of trade. For commercial shoots the client usually pays, or pays the agent who pays the talent.
What do I wear?
For private and amateur shoots you should wear things that express your character and show off your physique.
Private shoots are usually about the body or idea, as opposed to commercial shoots that are about the product.
Remember that you are a model and you should show off your body a bit.
Take a few outfits or items with even if they're not in the shoot - this may seed a future shoot.
The photographer usually has ideas for the shoot, but do suggest your own ideas - creative, expressive models are sought after.
Always tell the photographer about other ideas you have after the shoot, it may just lead to more work.
Don't wear tight underwear the day of the shoot, it makes your body look lumpy both underneath the clothes and the marks left on the skin, and this can take hours of editing to fix. Natural lumps and bumps are lovely, underwear lumps cheapen the image.
For shoots with a stylist you should contact the stylist before the shoot so that you can be prepared for the outfit, hair, or makeup.
If you're ok with nudity you should tell the photographer up front and you can usually ask a higher rate. Breasts are not generally considered nudity. Will it hurt your career? No, never, but it's always up to you.
What do I do? How do I pose?
The best actors make the best models. You need to express yourself, and your individuality, or put on a character.
In a shoot many photos may be taken but only few are chosen - this is normal. Don't be afraid to do the wrong thing or pose the wrong way. It's better to give 100 different awkward poses than 100 identical poses just standing looking at the camera.
If you don't know how to pose, ask the photographer, and always keep making subtle changes after every click (unless the photographer tells you to keep still for a few shots). Don't stand like a deer in the headlights.
Change your facial expressions too. Pretend you're saying vowels and consonants for added expression.
A good trick is to pretend there is a piece of fabric draped over you, and just play with this invisible fabric - this gives you a range of elegant poses. After every 10 poses or so change poses dramatically.
Don't worry if you don't know all the standard poses, just move naturally and don't be afraid to act and be dramatic. The modeling part is your domain, and the photographer will guide you and perfect your pose, but you are usually in charge of finding your pose. You don't have to look at the camera the whole time. Move your body 360 degrees, and move your head at different angles, this makes things more interesting. When in doubt, be random! Keep track of your hands and feet and make sure they are elegantly posed and not obscured, think of the best curves and shapes. You're an artist.
Cancelling, Times
Never, Ever cancel a shoot (unless you are dying). Shoots take hours of preparation, and sometimes involve many people's work and consultation, and if you cancel at the last minute because you're meeting a friend for coffee or something you will be hated and despised and ruin your reputation very quickly. Divas don't get work unless they're already supermodels. The photographic scene is pretty small, and word gets around fast. If you end up on a photographers "no-show" list don't expect many calls. If you take it seriously others will too and you'll make decent money and have fun.
Always arrive 10-15 minutes before the shoot time, don't 'run late', professional models are always early, on time at the very latest.
Do I own the rights to images a photographer took?
No. The photographer owns the rights to the images just as a painter owns the painting, unless you sign a contract otherwise.
The exception is where your image is used to endorse or promote a product. In advertising written permission from the model is required by law.
Chaperone
If you are insecure and need a companion they need to leave during the shoot. Chaperones always ruin the mood, and that magic shot comes from building a mood.
If you simply can't work without someone you know then bring your own stylist or makeup artist.
Statistically more bad things happen to photographers and artists than models, so do understand your chaperone is a risk too.
If you feel endangered working alone with a photographer you shouldn't be working with them in the first place.
How much can I make?
R100-R200 per hour for an inexperienced model is a good rate and you'll probably get a lot of work this way (typically you can earn R20,000 per month). Nude work usually pays R200-R600 per hour depending on the project and your experience.
Always be honest about your level of experience, a photographer can tell instantly if you're new.
If you overcharge you will get less work and less money, but don't be afraid to put down a minimum rate in your modeling profile or contract, of course everything is negotiable.
For commercial shoots where the photographer or agent will be selling the images you can negotiate a better price, and will usually be paid commercial rates, but it's unusual for an inexperienced model to be in a commercial shoot. Don't be too pushy too soon in your career or you may get a negative reputation.
Remember that you're in a competitive industry - in Cape Town there are 2000+ models, but if you're fresh and affordable you'll quickly build up a top-notch portfolio, and have fun and meet all the photographers and stylists.
After the shoot
Most photographers will send you a few pics from the shoot. If you like the pics do respond and let the photographer know what you think, otherwise it implies you don't like the pics (and by association the photographer) and the photographer is not likely to contact you again.
If you're genuinely interested in being a model ( and not just doing it for some quick cash ), you will be studying other models, discussing ideas with photographers and stylists continually, and finding ways with the photographer to improve your images.
Can an amateur/alternative/niche model become successful?
Most definitely. There are lots of wealthy amateur models. If you enjoy your body and your art and have a positive attitude and enjoy networking you'll get far.
Good luck!
Need more? There's some really nice information here: http://www.newmodels.com
Please feel free to send me updates to this information - everyone's experience differs.